Tag Archives: DIY

Easy, Portable Non Paper Doll Storage

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So you’ve been buying up all those ridiculously adorable Non Paper Dolls for your kiddos (or yourself 😉 I won’t judge!) and you need an quick and inexpensive storage solution that doubles as a felt play mat – I’ve got the easiest solution for you – paper doll storage!  This paper doll storage also doubles as a felt board or flannel board. 

I found this plastic project case at my local Michaels craft store – it is meant for storing scrapbooking supplies, so it is in their paper crafting section (close up of the label below).  If you don’t have a craft store nearby or just prefer to shop on Amazon, they have a similar one here: Slim Scrapbook Case
The best part of this case is that it is about 1.5 inches thick and has a carrying handle. Takes up next to no space and easy to grab for fun on the run!

The price is the same at both – about $10, but at Michaels you can always use that 40% coupon!
You will also need some felt – if you go with the smaller 8×11 case like I did, two felt sheets will suffice – if you go with the larger 12×12 case, you’ll need approximately 1/3 of a yard of felt. Also grab some plastic-safe glue – I love silicone glue or a heavy duty spray adhesive.

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Here’s a close up of the label:DSC_2841

The project couldn’t be simpler – trim or cut the felt to fit on the inside of the case, glue down with your glue or spray adhesive and allow to dry.  When dry, your felt dolls and accessories will stick to the felt for easy playing, and when you’re done playing, just close up the case and everything will be stored neatly inside!DSC_2844

Viola! Instant play on the go- great for grabbing on the way to a doctors appointment, a long trip in the car or airplane, or even when you’re visiting a friend’s house who may not have many toys for your kids to play with!

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Loom Knit Cable Headband

How’s the weather where you are right now? If I was back home in Jersey, I’d say that I was in a deep freeze (good luck to all of you out on the east coast during this Polar Freeze!), but I’m not in NJ, I’m out here in Washington, where it is plenty cold for me! I’m trying to get back into a decent running habit again while there’s no snow or ice on the ground, but I can’t seem to find the happy medium when it comes to how to dress for the weather. I know that it’s important to keep your head warm, but when I start to run, my head gets too warm and then I’m just plain old uncomfortable (and if I’m uncomfortable, I don’t want to run- I’ll use any excuse possible to stop!). Enter the headband- it’s warm enough to keep the chill off of the ears and neck, but still allows for air flow. I have the cutest knitted headband that I got at Kohls last year, but it has a brooch, beads and feathers, making it un-washable, and if I’m sweating in it, you can bet I’m going to want to wash it!
Enter the Knifty Knitter Loom Set

Who remembers these things from their childhood? I know I knit many a hat on these back in the day. Back in High School, I worked at a craft store (any East Coasters remember Rag Shop?), and one of the best parts of the job was getting to try out all of the new products and do demos for the customers on them. This was definitely one of my most favorite things that I demonstrated- I remember how in awe I was when I “knit” a hat in about two hours! Back then the only thing you could make on these things was a hat or scarf (and maybe a poncho if you were super talented) and there was basically only one stitch- the knit stitch. Somehow I figured out how to make socks on it back then, but that was a big deal. Now, there’s a whole host of stitches and patterns to match and I found out that you can even do a cable stitch on it! So I set out to teach myself some new stitches (just a new type of knit, the purl and the cable stitch) and wrote up this pattern as I went. I’m not going to go over the different stitches, here, but if you go on youtube and search “loom knit stitches” you’ll come up with videos for everything! (Including the cable stitch, which I wrote out below, but I suggest watching a video for).

Cable Knit Headband

To make one loom knit cable headband, you’ll need the small Knifty Knitter loom, one skein of size 5 or 6 bulky/chunky weight yarn, cable needle and a crochet hook or yarn needle to finish it off.

Notes:
-I start where the anchor peg is, and I refer to the pegs from the left to right as pegs 1 through 12.
-“Slip first stitch” means to skip it and move on to the next peg. This will make for a neater edge.
-You’ll want to knit very loosely, especially the four knit stitches in the middle of each row as that’s where the cable crossover will be. I knit the row just before the cable row super loose to make the cable stitch easier.
-See below for a few “in action” pictures

Cast on 12 stitches (from left to right). I wrap pegs 1-12 from left to right, then knit (not E-wrap) each peg from right to left, skipping #12.
Row 1: (Left to Right) Slip first stitch, K11
Row 2: (Right to Left) Repeat row 1
Row 3-9: Slip first stitch, K1 P2 K4 P2 K2
Row 10: Slip first stitch, K1 P2 4-Stitch Right Cable* (see below) P2 K2
Row 11-17 : Slip first stitch, K1 P2 K4 P2 K2
Repeat steps 10-17 until the band is long enough to wrap around your head comfortably, keeping in mind that you’ll want it to be snug so that it doesn’t slip down or fall off while wearing it. I ended up with 10 cable repeats to wrap around my head, but you may be larger or smaller!
When it is long enough, bind off and leave a long tail for joining the two ends together.
At this point, I like to pull and stretch the band to even out the stitches. You can also block your piece at this time if you desire.
Fold your headband in half, with the right side facing in and line up the two shorter sides (to form a headband loop.) Using your crochet hook or yarn needle, whip stitch the edges together to secure the loop.
Turn your headband right side out and wear with pride!

*How to do the 4-Stitch Right Cable*
Put stitch 8 onto a cable needle, followed by stitch 7. Place cable needle gently into the middle of the loom. Take stitch 6 and move it to 8, and take stitch 5 and move it to 7 (I like to move them one peg at a time- so take stitch 6, move it to 7, take stitch 5 move it to 6, and then move them each one more spot so 7 goes to 8 and 6 goes to 7). Knit off stitches 7 and 8.
Take the two stitches on the cable needle and place them back on the pegs (stitch 8 will move to 6 and stitch 7 will move to 5. Knit them off as well.
Moving the two stitches from the cable needle back to the pegs will be tough, and you will have to stretch them, just take your time and use your fingernails to help you.
If this doesn’t make sense, there are lots of YouTube videos out there on how to do cable knits on a loom- I watched a few of them, and then suddenly the written word made more sense!

To cast on, I wrapped each peg:
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And then used the knit stitch (laying the yarn over the peg and pulling the bottom loop over and off the peg)
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In the middle of a cable stitch:
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DIY Easy Burlap Christmas Stockings

Going along with my handmade Christmas decorations (like my Holiday Burlap Banner or my Ruffled Tree Skirt), today I made a pair of burlap Christmas stockings for my hubby and myself.  I knew we needed some stockings but just like my tree skirt, I had several ideas in mind when I went into the fabric store, but as soon as I stepped inside and saw this printed burlap, I knew exactly what I wanted to make!  These stockings were so easy, I had them sewn and hanging in under an hour (and that’s with me photographing every step of the way- I’m sure you could have them done even quicker!)
Burlap Stockings DIY

You’ll need the following (for each stocking)
1/2 yard of burlap
1/2 yard of felt (a half yard of felt will be enough for 2 stockings since felt is typically 72″ wide)
1 Shank button
decorative buttons
thread to match
Typical sewing supplies- sewing machine, scissors, straight pins, etc.

These directions are to make 1 stocking. Adjust as necessary to make more than one.

Step 1
Cut out 2 stockings from burlap and 2 from the felt (which will act as the lining). I sketched out a stocking shape on a piece of newspaper, but I’m sure you could find some printable templates online. For the cuff, cut 2 rectangles that are as wide as the top of your stocking and twice as long as you’d like the cuff to be. (So I wanted my cuff to be 4 inches long and my stocking was 5 inches wide, so I cut 2 rectangles 5 inches by 8 inches).  In the photo below you’ll see I have two cuffs on the left opened up and two cuffs on the right folded in half.

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Step 2

Place right sides together and sew a 1/2 seam around the stockings and the linings, leaving the top end open.  Backstitch at the beginning and end.
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Step 3

Fold both cuff pieces in half (so that the short ends are touching) and then lay one folded piece on top of the other, and sew down the short sides.
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Step 4

Trim.  You’re going to trim the lining (The felt pieces) very close to your stitching and the burlap piece you are going to grade the seams (cut one seam allowance shorter than the other) and clip the curves.
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Here you can better see the grading of the seam on the burlap piece.  Trim the cuff seam as well.
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Step 5

Turn the burlap piece right side out (and not pictured here) turn the cuff piece right side out.  Slide the lining into the outer burlap stocking- the wrong sides of each should be facing each other now.  Slide the cuff into the opening of the stocking and pin around the uppermost edge.  (Not shown- sorry! I forgot to photograph this).  Sew around the uppermost edge with a 1/2 inch seam.
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Step 7

Pull the cuff out of the stocking, fold back the burlap piece and trim down all of the felt pieces.  Leave the burlap seam allowance long because burlap tends to fray.
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Step 8

Fold the cuff down to the outside.  At this point you could leave it as is, or you can decorate with decorative buttons.  I did three tortoiseshell buttons on my husbands mustache stocking and 3 buttons to form Mickey’s head on my Mickey stocking.

On the backside, I sewed a shank button near the top of the cuff so that I had something to hang a string on to hang the stockings up.  You could omit this and sew the string right to the stocking, but I liked how this looked better.
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Finally, “hang your stockings by the chimney with care in hopes that St. Nicholas soon will be there”
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I wish our mantle looked this good! Actually, we live in an apartment, so our stockings are currently hanging on our TV stand.  This is the fireplace in our apartment complex’s clubhouse.
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Did you make some stockings of your own? I’d love to see them! Leave me a comment here or stop by my Facebook page and leave me a picture. Is Instagram more your style? Follow me at @SewIn2Disney so that you can tag me in your picture and make sure you use hashtag #handmadeisbetter

Easy Ruffled Tree Skirt

As soon as the turkey was cleaned up from Thanksgiving last week, my husband and I started breaking out the Christmas decorations and by the end of last weekend we had everything up! (Granted- we live in an apartment right now so that doesn’t take too long! But stay tuned- I am going to do a post within the next week about how to decorate in such a small space). We spent a lazy Saturday putting up the tree and slowly decorating it, and when all was said and done it looked nice, but it was missing something. Tinsel maybe? Hmmm… but with a new dog, we were afraid he’d eat it… no… what we were missing was a tree skirt. When we went shopping the next day we looked at tree skirts and were shocked at the price of some of them– we saw skirts from $15- well over $100. The $15 ones looked horrible, so the next day, I took a trip to the craft store – I had a few ideas in mind, but nothing specific. After perusing the ribbon aisle, I decided I was going to make a ruffled tree skirt. I had originally discounted that idea because who has time to cut all that fabric, hem it, and then gather it? Not this girl! But- in the ribbon aisle, I discovered a host of ribbons that were wired, and I noticed that by gently pulling on the wire, I could easily “gather” the ribbon with no extra sewing for me. Score!

Before I continue- this is what I ended up with after an afternoon of sewing!
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After spending nearly 45 minutes in the ribbon aisle, this is the color scheme I went with- I thought the blue and silver looked so refreshing and was a nice change of pace from all the red and green.
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In order to make this project work, you need to make sure the ribbon you are picking has wire in it, and that the ribbon can easily gather on the wire. See that ribbon in the middle in the picture above (the one with the trees) – I guess I forgot to test that one in the store because the wire was glued to the ribbon and it wouldn’t gather- that one is going back.

My tree skirt is 40″ across – and for that size skirt, I ended up using 5 spools of ribbon. Each spool of ribbon had 12 feet on it and was 2.5 inches wide.  You’re going to have to do a little math to figure out how much ribbon you need– and don’t forget that you’re gathering it, so you’ll need about twice as much as you think to make up for the gathering!

Keep in mind that as the circles get smaller towards the center you’ll use significantly less ribbon.  My last four rows were all made with just 2 spools of ribbon, so even though my tree skirt actually has 7 rows of ribbon, it was only made with 5 spools total.

Also keep in mind that one 12 foot spool of ribbon (slightly gathered) will comfortably go around a 40″ diameter circle.  If your circle is more than that, make sure you get 2 of the same spools of ribbon so you can patch them together!

Besides ribbon, you’ll also need felt (as wide as you want to make your tree skirt), a pen, safety pin, ribbon or yarn and a sewing machine.
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To get started, decide how wide you’ll want your tree skirt.  We have a skinny tree, so I went with 40″ across.  Take your measurement, divide it in half, and get a piece of ribbon a bit longer than that.  Tie one end to a pen or pencil, and measure out your measurement and pin the ribbon in place in the middle of your felt.  What you’re essentially doing is making a huge compass to help you draw a large circle.

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After drawing your initial circle, you can draw concentric circles as guidelines to help you place your rows of ribbon.  My ribbon was 2.5 inches wide, and I wanted a bit of overlap, so I made my circles every 2 inches.  You could omit this step and eyeball it, but some people like that extra assurance!

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Cut out your circle, and then cut a slit from the edge to the center

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You’re going to be working from the outside in, so pick which ribbon you want on the outside edge and start gathering!

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Starting at the slit, fold a bit of the ribbon onto the back and then begin pinning the ribbon along your first guide line.

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Keep going until you get all the way around. My outermost row was one entire 12 foot spool of ribbon.

After it is pinned, you’re going to sew it down.  Carefully sew along the gathered edge, getting as close as you can to the wire without sewing over it (you don’t want to break a needle!)

After the first row is sewn down, you’re basically going to repeat the last few steps on each concentric circle- gather, pin, sew, rinse and repeat.

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This isn’t mandatory, but if your dog can insist on sleeping on your project while you’re working, that would be great.

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Keep going until you get to a point where there is about a 12 inch circle of felt left.  You can either leave it there (if you have an artificial tree, it probably won’t be a problem, because the “trunk” isn’t that wide), or if you have a real tree, you can cut the white circle out to make sure you have enough space to wrap the skirt around your tree.

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An overhead view

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I just can’t stop looking at this glittery ruffly goodness!

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And here it is gracing our tree!

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Hmmm….someone looks guilty don’t they?

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As always, if you use my tutorial to make your own, I’d love to see it! Comment, post to my Facebook or hit me up on Instagram at @sewin2disney so you can tag me and use hashtag #handmadeisbetter – I love to see what you come up with! The color combinations are endless!

Reversible Holiday Burlap Banner

Happy almost Thanksgiving! In honor of the holiday that gets no recognition (when it comes to decorations), I have an easy reversible holiday burlap banner tutorial today! I’m all for decorating for Halloween and then leaving some of the more “fall-ish” decorations up through Thanksgiving (like my Recycled Book Pumpkin!) But I feel that Thanksgiving needs its own special decoration, hence, my “Give Thanks” bunting. I got this idea a few months ago, and have been slacking since I bought the burlap. When I sat down to make it, I figured why not make it a two-in-one craft with a Thanksgiving greeting on one side and a Christmas greeting on the other? That way after the turkey has been eaten, I can easily flip this banner over and get a head start on my holiday decorating!

Reversible Holiday Burlap BannerTo get started, you’ll need a few items – about a half a yard of burlap (get more if you want a different size or shape bunting or if you want to write a phrase with more letters in it), a spool of ribbon at least 6 feet long (mine was burlap ribbon that was 1/2 inch wide), black paint, paintbrush, sharpie and either a hot glue gun or sewing machine to attach your bunting to the ribbon.

To begin, decide on your phrase – I picked “Give Thanks” on one side and “Believe” on the other. Since they don’t have the same amount of letters, I chose to put “Give” all on one flap. If you have 2 phrases with different amounts of letters you could always leave blank flaps on the reverse side or decorate the extra flaps with simple pictures (you’ll see what I mean below)

I wrote mine out on some scrap paper and played around with different fonts – I went with a script like font for “Give Thanks” and a funky mixed up font for “believe”

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Next, make your bunting pattern – you can go with the traditional triangle, or with the longer double-pointed flap like I did.  My dimensions are below- feel free to replicate that or come up with a size that better suits you (and the area you want to hang it in!)

*Note that mine is on the fold- so it is actually twice that!  Having it doubled lets you write letters on both sides without having the paint show through to the other side.

Cut one piece (on the fold) for each letter in your phrase.  I decided to add a “picture” flap at each end of my word, so I cut out 9 flaps – actually, I cut out 10- one extra to practice on.DSC_2902

 

Iron your burlap (you want to make sure it’s flat and it has a good crease at the top).

 

 

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Now it’s time to begin painting your letters! I used a sharpie marker to freehand the letters, but if you’re not confident in your lettering, you could use a stencil or print out your phrase on your computer and use a window or lightbox to transfer the font to your burlap.

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After you have written out your letter in Sharpie, go over it with paint.  I did only my first word, and laid out the letters in order. *Make sure you work on scrap paper or newspaper as the paint will bleed through the burlap.

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Now, for the reverse side, you’re going to want to work in reverse- so the “b” in “believe” will actually start on the “s” in “thanks”. (This is why I suggest doing only one word at a time!

Repeat with your Sharpie/Painting on the other side.

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All done!DSC_2912

Last, I decided I wanted a picture flap at each end- so on one side, I painted some simple leaves and on the other, some holly (And after I took this picture, I outlined both and added in some details with Sharpie markers)

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Next, lay out your ribbon – my window (where I wanted to hang the bunting) is 72″ long, so I made my ribbon 75″ long so that the bunting would have a slight curve to it when hanging.

Space out your letters and pin into place.DSC_2914 DSC_2915

 

I sewed my burlap down to the ribbon just because for me, it’s the fastest, but if you aren’t handy with a sewing machine, you could just as easily hot glue the letters to the ribbon.DSC_2917

 

With my extra ribbon, I made two little bows to put at each end and used some straight pins to attach it to the wall!

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Right now, we have “Give Thanks” hanging up, but come Friday, I’m going to reverse it….

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….so that it says “believe”!1DSC_2920

If you make this, what phrase(s) are you going to put! Let me know in the comments! Or show off your final piece on my Facebook page. More of an Instagram person? Follow me @SewIn2Disney so you can tag me and add hashtag #handmadeisbetter. I can’t wait to see what you come up with!

 

How To Make A Dog Coat

Moving from New Jersey to Washington has brought out several big changes for me, one of which being the fact that it gets colder sooner. Now, in NJ, we have our fair share of winter and a decent amount of snow, but nothing would prepare me for having my first snow on November 3rd! And that is just what happened this year- I woke up early on Sunday morning only to look outside and see snow falling. Nothing stuck, but it was pretty to look at while it lasted. We turned on the Weather channel to see the forecast only to see that we were in for a snowstorm on Tuesday, and yesterday, we got our first measurable snowstorm of the season – 3 inches on November 5th! Crazy, right? Well, for this Jersey Girl it definitely was!
So what does all this snow have to do with how to make a dog coat? A few weeks ago, my husband and I rescued a puppy from the shelter. Gunner is a 9 month old Boxer and Whippet mix (and for those who don’t know, like us, a Whippet is along the same family line as a Greyhound). He really is a great dog, but I’m not so sure he’s ready for winter. A good friend told me that Greyhounds have hair, not fur, and that definitely holds true for our dog. He has very fine hair, and research told us that Whippets can get very cold when the temperatures drop, so with the first real snowfall of the year today, I decided to make him a little dog jacket.

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I figured this was something that I could figure out easy enough, but I turned to Pinterest to get some ideas, and stumbled upon this link on how to make a ‘Country Gent Tweed Coat’, and I knew that *that* was the coat I was going to make him!

I followed their basic pattern/directions, but I changed it up a bit- not only to make it easier, but to make it more practical for our use. Their tweed/fur coat was adorable, but maybe for a prim and proper little dog- ours is a run around, rough and tumble dog, and I wanted to make him something that was warm and would hold up to his active lifestyle, not to mention something that would be easily washable!

The changes I made to their pattern are as follows:

  • Instead of tweed/fur, I used two layers of fleece (leftover from my Camel Halloween costume!)
  • Since I was working with leftover fabric, I didn’t have enough to make my piece the shape of their pattern. Instead, I started with a deep U shaped piece of fabric that was the length of his body from neck to tail and was as wide as he was from side to side (with a drape over the side).  I then cut two bands- one to go around the neck and one to go under the belly.  The length of these depends on the size of your dog.  See photo below for a picture of the band in front of the neck.
  • I didn’t use bias tape to attach the two pieces together.  Rather, I cut one piece of fleece 5/8″ wider on all sides than the other piece.  I then turned the excess fleece under (sort of like a hem) and sewed it down.

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I did keep the belt (because that was just so adorable!) and instead of a sew-on collar around the neck, I just folded the edge back and hand sewed it down.

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All in all, the whole project took me less than an hour to make and he loved it!  We used it last night when we took a 2 mile walk, and he didn’t fuss with it one bit.  Plus, it was icing/drizzling, so it kept him warm and semi dry.  I may make him another one with a more waterproof material for days when it is actually raining- I’m thinking a nylon outer, lined with fleece so it keeps him warm and dry.

What do you think? Would your dog wear one? If you make one, I’d love to see it! Leave me a comment below with where I can see a picture, or visit me on Facebook and leave me a picture! Are you on Instagram? Be sure to follow me and tag me @sewin2disney and use hashtag #handmadeisbetter so I can see what you come up with!

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DIY Satin Flower Accents {Tutorial}

I’ve got a quick and easy DIY tutorial today!
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These little satin flower accents are super easy to make and can be used for a variety of things– accents on purses or clothes, turned into a necklace or even sewn onto a baby or child’s headband!

I made these as accents for my bridesmaid’s dresses and purses.  My bridesmaid’s are all wearing navy blue dresses that we bought from Nordstrom.  A similar dress can be found here (although, now it’s in teal, and it’s not carried in navy any more).  It’s a very simple one shoulder sheath dress with an allover lace overlay.  It also comes with a simple satin tie for the waist.  Our wedding colors are navy and coral, so this dress was perfect, but it needed a pop of color, so I made these flowers to add to the satin tie.

You’ll need very little to make this project:
-Scraps of satin fabric
-a piece of paper (to make a pattern)
-large beads or pearls
-hand sewing needle and thread
-scissors
-a candle
-matches or a lighter
-bowl of water (juuuuust in case you should happen to catch something on fire!)
-tongs
-a fire proof area to work in

*Note* – This is a very easy project, but obviously is not one for children.  You will be working around fire.  Please exercise caution and work in an area/on a fireproof surface, have a bowl of water ready, tie your hair back, roll up your sleeves, etc.
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Step 1: After assembling your supplies and taking the necessary safety precautions (I can’t stress this enough!), cut out your pattern pieces. I used a piece of scrap paper and cut out three wonky circles (they are purposefully not perfect because I didn’t want my flowers to be perfect little circles, but obviously if you want them to be perfect you could use a compass or trace some circular items you have lying around). I wanted my flowers to be three layers so I made three pattern pieces, all circles, and measuring 2 inches across, 1.5 inches across and a hair over 1 inch across. You can altar these sizes to fit your needs.
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Step 2: Cut out the fabric.  Using your pattern pieces as a guide, cut out your fabric.  Here you can see I needed four sets of each of my three colors- I have an array of little fabric circles!
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Step 3: The dangerous step!  Make sure your bowl of water is nearby and any long hair is tied back.  Carefully light your candle, and using your tongs, hold the edge of the circle over the flame.  This will lightly singe and seal the edge.  If you hit it at the right angle and from the bottom, it will also curl up slightly which will make for a nice effect on the finished flower.  *Tip*- cut out a few extra circles to practice on.  Once you get your technique down, go for the good pieces.
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Step 4- After all of your flower edges have been sealed, stack up the three pieces, largest on the bottom to smallest on the stop, and using your needle and thread, sew a few stitches through the center. I used a pearl as a center accent, but you could use a large bead or even a button.
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Step 5- bask in the glory of all your little satin flowers!
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I haven’t attached them to the bridesmaid dresses yet, but I did make some smaller ones and attach them to the bridesmaid clutches (which I wrote more about here.)
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If you make them, please let me know in the comments what you decide to add them to! I think they would be darling attached to a little headband for babies or children (perfect photo op for all you photographers out there!).

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Make a Chalkboard from a Tray

Lately, most of my crafts have been for my upcoming wedding.  One thing I wanted to do was to take some trays and paint them with chalkboard paint.  At the reception, these trays would serve various purposes; listing our “specialty drink” at the bar, having a menu at the beginning of the dinner buffet, and letting our guests know of a hashtag I’m going to ask them to use if they Instagram anything from our wedding.

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First, gather your supplies– Originally, I wanted to do this with a thrifted tray, but I couldn’t find any in my price range (nor did I want to ruin an antique!), but surprisingly, I picked up these at the dollar store.  Yes! The dollar store! (Dollar Tree to be exact– I’m pretty sure they’re across the country).  I was told this is something that they stock regularly, and they came in a variety of sizes.

You’ll need:
-A tray (or two… or three!)
-fine sandpaper
-blue painters tape
-primer (I went with Krylon )
-chalkboard paint (again- Krylon )
-newspaper

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The first thing you’re going to want to do is use the blue painters tape to mask off the edges of the tray (or whatever parts you don’t want to get chalkboard paint on).  If you want the entire tray to be covered in chalkboard paint, then skip this step!

Next, (not pictured), take your sandpaper and lightly sand the area to be painted.  This roughs up the surface so that the paint will adhere better.

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After your tray is prepped, find yourself a ventilated area and lay out some newspapers to catch the overspray.  Take my word on this– lay out way more newspaper than you think you’ll need, the overspray can really travel!

Start with one coat of the primer.  Follow the primer’s directions as to how long to let it dry. Each primer may have its own specific instructions.

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After your primer has dried according to the directions, apply at least two coats of chalkboard paint.  Once again, follow the instructions as to how long to wait between coats.

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Once the paint has dried thoroughly, “prime” your board according to the directions.  Most chalkboard paint brands suggest wiping chalk across the entire surface and wiping it clean before use.   After that, a soft cloth with a little bit of water will suffice for cleaning your chalkboard.

I have to admit, I’m having fun writing little sayings and quotes on these trays and using them for decoration!  I can also see using them as a prop in a photo shoot, or as a little make-shift to do list hung in my kitchen.

What would you use your tray for?

*Please note that this post contains affiliate links. If you purchase the items on Amazon through my links I receive a small percentage as a compensation.

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